Saturday, September 20, 2014

The Elegant Celadon Imperial

in Blanc de Chine, Imperial Red and Midnight Blue...

1200 SGD (approx 945 USD)

A new Mystery Bespoke Tailor - opinions requested!

So I'm presuming most of you guys reading this cloth blog will be bespoke aficionados. I'd like to get your opinions on this new tailor I've found. He's willing to do a full canvas, totally handmade (beyond even the usual Savile Row amount) suit for CMT 1000 USD.

Some pics of his workmanship posted here. More to come of the rest of the suit once I get one made. The hand-stitching of the French fronts seem to be well executed, and the pick stitching is quite good. The hand-hewn buttonholes are also well done. All of these can still be improved, and the guy is willing to do so, which is what's important.

Best of all, he's willing and able to incorporate all sorts of neat sartorial flourishes - Florentine-style very open quarters, A&S wide bellied DB lapels, Napolitano arced SB lapels, spalla camicia, 3 roll 2, voluptuous lapel roll, Milanese buttonholes (at a very fair extra charge), Barchetta pocket, Florentine-style dart less front cut with side bodies (would be cool to see this executed!), and a totally unlined interior with every seam bound by hand. He's also willing to use a more expensive linen canvas (as opposed to horsehair) like the tailors in Milan.

Oh yeah, and he does shirts too. Looks pretty good eh?

Some very special Tussah silk, woven on 19th century looms

I've now found a good source of Tussah silk, woven on 90cm (36 inch) widths with antique hand looms. 

This is an elegant heavyweight silk suitable for spring, autumn, winter and windy summers. 

Even though it is heavy, the cloth does not wear warm, but drapes exceedingly well.

600g / 21 oz

Available for immediate delivery

4m minimum, 160 SGD/m (either wire or paypal+fees)

Available colours -

AF Blue
Marine Blue
Light Grey
Jade Green
Racing Green
Burnt Orange

More Bonfanti Shirtings

These Bonfanti shirtings are ready for delivery now.

They are 170/2 voiles, in Supima quality (according to Bonfanti one of the best available on the market).

We also have Solid White in a panama weave, 60% linen 40% cotton. Excellent for warm weather and shoulder seasons.

We will also have similar stripes very soon from Bonfanti's Sahara range (identical fabric to Riva Lino Arsenal)

4m minimum, 85 SGD/m (either wire or paypal+fees)

Most of the cloths are approx 150 gr mt/L (adjusted to compare with 150cm shirting)

Wednesday, September 17, 2014

For those who've had enough of the mainstream brands - a BESPOKE WATCH from our friends over at Celadon!

Enamel dials, painted by hand, by the finest enameler in the world.

Each dial is a 3cm portrait, 
some of which are created from gold wire

Hand-painted porcelain dials

Fabric connoisseurs will appreciate the hand-stitched embroidered dials (available for bespoke customisation) below 

For more info -

The finest (and only) custom run shirting in the world, made by Bonfanti in Como, Italy

We're doing 6 shirting runs with Bonfanti to start with, and if everything goes according to plan, we’ll do some more in December!

I’ve chosen these 3 designs for their rarity (I don’t think any of them exist in the market at anywhere near this quality level, and for the yellow not at any level), and for their uniqueness yet versatility in pairing with both winter and summer sportcoats and suits.

I’ve also decided to go with Bonfanti’s absolute top quality - if we’re gonna do it, let’s do it properly guys! So we’ll have the finest weave (170/2), the finest fabric (linen-cotton), and the finest quality (etamine, which happens to be Bonfanti’s personal favourite of all his shirtings). Pictures below of etamine, which is unique to Bonfanti and a very special shirting. It is perfect for summer but also works well for winter, and is very robust.

So here we go…

1. sky blue puppy tooth twill 170/2 cotton

2. sky blue stripes 170/2 linen-cotton 

3. red stripes 170/2 linen-cotton etamine

4. red micro gingham 170/2 linen-cotton etamine

5. canary yellow stripes 170/2 linen-cotton etamine

6. canary yellow micro gingham 170/2 linen-cotton etamine

Pictures below of fabric no 6 and 4.

All fabrics will be in 30m runs, meaning there will only be 7 shirts made from each pattern in the world. This is a whole new league above limited edition. 

Not just the shirt is bespoke, but even its fabric is bespoke now, and the finest available.

The cloth is of 90cm width, because it’s woven on antique shuttle looms which produce very fine and durable shirting at very slow speeds. Bonfanti, along with Riva, are the only mills world-wide still producing shirting in this artisanal manner. These old 90cm looms create fabric with an unsurpassably soft hand.

The cloths will take 2 months to weave. Please register your interest with me asap so we can put in the order and have the cloths ready by the start of December, and have finished shirts by the Christmas and New Year festivities!

85 SGD/m (either wire or paypal+fees)

Most of the cloths are approx 150 gr mt/L (adjusted to compare with 150cm shirting)

4m minimum which should be just right for most, bearing in mind the 90cm width. If there’s any extra this can be used for pattern matching (since these are patterned cloths), and for replacing collars and cuffs when they wear out.

Email with subject heading "SHIRTINGS" to order.

Monday, September 1, 2014

WBill Bespoke Run Sky Blue & Tan Glenplaid linen

Our bespoke run Sky Blue & Tan Glenplaid linen from W. Bill, the finest suiting linen around.

The base of black and white is very lightly-coloured to go with the brightness and cheerfulness of summer and spring!

Here shown made up in a DB uncanvassed washable jacket, and in a linen tie. A truly remarkable outfit, bespoke to the maximum!

In case you're wondering, that gorgeous watch is a Celadon Imperial, by Maison Celadon (

Price is 140 SGD/m (approx 68 GBP/m)

280g (10 oz) weight

3m minimum. You may want to get extra fabric because of the check, for pattern matching purposes.

Cloth has been woven and is available immediately