Saturday, September 20, 2014

A new Mystery Bespoke Tailor - opinions requested!

So I'm presuming most of you guys reading this cloth blog will be bespoke aficionados. I'd like to get your opinions on this new tailor I've found. He's willing to do a full canvas, totally handmade (beyond even the usual Savile Row amount) suit for CMT 1000 USD.

Some pics of his workmanship posted here. More to come of the rest of the suit once I get one made. The hand-stitching of the French fronts seem to be well executed, and the pick stitching is quite good. The hand-hewn buttonholes are also well done. All of these can still be improved, and the guy is willing to do so, which is what's important.

Best of all, he's willing and able to incorporate all sorts of neat sartorial flourishes - Florentine-style very open quarters, A&S wide bellied DB lapels, Napolitano arced SB lapels, spalla camicia, 3 roll 2, voluptuous lapel roll, Milanese buttonholes (at a very fair extra charge), Barchetta pocket, Florentine-style dart less front cut with side bodies (would be cool to see this executed!), and a totally unlined interior with every seam bound by hand. He's also willing to use a more expensive linen canvas (as opposed to horsehair) like the tailors in Milan.

Oh yeah, and he does shirts too. Looks pretty good eh?

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